How to spot a rolled-back odometer

1. Write down or photograph the odometer reading.
2. Compare it with the mileage written on the title, and on any older titles the seller has. Today's reading should be at least that high.
3. Compare it with service and inspection records and oil-change stickers. No mileage recorded for work already done should be higher than today's.
4. Run a title-history report from the VIN check above and compare its recorded reading. If the seller offers a commercial history report, read that too.
5. Check the wear: tires, pedals, seats, and carpet. On older cars with rolling number wheels, check that the odometer digits line up.
6. Get an independent inspection from a mechanic you choose. If the seller won't allow one, walk away.

If any record shows more miles than the dashboard does, stop and find out why. The sections below explain each check.

Odometer fraud means disconnecting, resetting, or changing a car's odometer so it shows a different number of miles. Usually that means fewer miles, so the car looks newer and sells for more. It's against federal law.

NHTSA, the federal auto safety agency, estimates more than 450,000 vehicles are sold each year with false odometer readings. Besides overpaying, you can end up with a car that's more worn out, and less safe, than you think.

No single record has the whole story. Gather what you can and line the readings up by date. The miles should never go down, and today's odometer should be the highest number.

• The title. It shows the mileage the last seller wrote down when they sold the car.
• Service and inspection records. Repair bills, oil-change receipts, and state inspection reports usually list the mileage at each visit. Ask the seller for them.
• An NMVTIS title report. NMVTIS is the federal title database. Its reports show the latest odometer reading states reported, along with title brands and salvage and total-loss records. That's one reading, not a full timeline. You can run one from the VIN check above.
• A commercial history report. These may add repair and service records, which can include more mileage readings. If the seller offers one free, use it, but it only shows what was reported to that company.

The Justice Department's NMVTIS site says checking the odometer reading helps you spot mismatches in a car's history. For what each report covers and costs, see free vs. paid history reports.

• The odometer shows fewer miles than the mileage written on the title. That reading was recorded at an earlier sale, so today's number should be at least that high.
• The mileage on the title is smudged, crossed out, or hard to read. NHTSA says to look closely when it is.
• Service or inspection records list more miles than the odometer does now.
• A history report lists an earlier reading higher than today's odometer. On a report with several readings, mileage that goes down from one record to the next is a red flag too.
• The title or mileage statement says “not actual mileage” or “exceeds mechanical limits.” Either way, the true miles aren't what the dashboard shows. Stop and ask questions.

Not every mismatch is fraud. An odometer can be legally repaired or replaced. If it can't keep the same reading, federal law says it must be set to zero, with a notice on the driver's door frame listing the old mileage and the date. Records can also have typos, like 150,000 entered for 15,000. Service records with steadily rising mileage can show that. No repair notice and no records that explain it? Treat the mismatch as a rollback.

Look at the car before you trust the number. The wear should match the miles.

• Tires: if the odometer shows 20,000 miles or less, the car should still have its original tires. New tires on a low-mileage car deserve a question.
• Pedals: gas, brake, and clutch pedals worn smooth don't fit a low-mileage car.
• Interior: heavy wear on the seats, seat belts, or carpet that doesn't match the miles shown.
• Stickers: look for oil-change and service stickers on the windows and door frames, in the glove box, and under the hood. A mileage for work already done should be lower than the odometer reads today. Many stickers show when the next change is due instead. That number is a reminder, so it can be higher.
• Odometer digits: on older cars with rolling number wheels, the digits should line up straight. NHTSA says if they're crooked, have gaps, or jiggle when you thump the dash with your hand, walk away.

Digital odometers don't give it away like that. NHTSA says a tampered digital odometer is even harder to spot, because there are no moving parts to show the tampering. The car's condition and its history are your best clues.

An independent mechanic can judge whether the car's overall wear fits the mileage.

When a car changes owners, federal rules make the seller write the odometer reading on the title (or the state's electronic title or transfer form) and sign it. You sign it too.

The seller must state one of three things: the reading is the actual mileage as far as they know, it has gone past the odometer's mechanical limit, or it isn't the actual mileage. The form warns that false information can bring fines or prison time.

Not every car needs the statement:

• Model year 2011 and newer: required until the car is 20 years old. A 2011 model needs it for sales through 2030.
• Model year 2010 and older: exempt.
• Very heavy trucks (over 16,000 pounds gross vehicle weight rating) and vehicles that aren't self-propelled, like trailers: exempt.

Check that the number written down matches the dashboard before you sign. On a car that needs the statement, don't accept a title with the mileage left blank. On an exempt car, the mileage may be marked “Exempt” instead of a number. Then the title tells you nothing about the miles, so lean harder on service records and the car's wear. Title forms vary by state, so check with your state's motor vehicle agency.

Before you buy: walk away, or stop and get answers in writing. A seller who can't explain a mileage gap isn't someone to trust on the rest of the deal.

If you already bought the car:

1. Gather everything: the title, the signed mileage statement, the ad, your contract, service records, and any report that shows the mismatch.
2. Report it to your state's odometer fraud enforcement agency. NHTSA keeps a list of agencies by state.
3. If it looks like part of a bigger scheme, such as one seller with many rolled-back cars, also call NHTSA's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 888-327-4236.
4. Talk to a consumer attorney. NHTSA can't pursue claims for individual buyers.

Federal law lets you sue anyone who broke the federal odometer rules on purpose to cheat, not only the seller. That can include an earlier owner or a wholesaler who did the rollback. If you win, they owe you three times your actual losses or $10,000, whichever is more, and the court also awards court costs and a reasonable attorney's fee.