Car dealer bait and switch: what to do

Written and checked by Drago. Last reviewed

You don't have to buy a different car or pay more than the price you were promised. If the dealer doesn't have the car or won't honor the price it sent you, the FTC says to walk away and report it. Save the ad and the dealer's messages first.

How we review this guidance. Rules and fees can vary by state, lender, dealer, and vehicle.

The short answer

  • Before you drive over, get the dealer to confirm in writing that the car is on the lot, with its out-the-door price.
  • An advertised price should be the real price. In 2026, the FTC warned dealers that advertised prices must include every required fee.
  • If the car “just sold,” ask when, and get the answer by email or text. Don't switch to a pricier car you didn't come for.
  • Screenshot the whole ad, with the fine print and the date, so you have proof.
  • Report it at ReportFraud.ftc.gov and to your state consumer protection office.

Shopping used? Check the VIN in the ad

Enter the VIN from the listing, or from any car they offer instead, to see what car it is, check its recalls, and get a title-history report.

Where to find it: Look at the bottom of the windshield on the driver's side, on the driver's door frame label, or in the listing, title, or registration.

No VIN yet? Ask the seller to send it, or zoom in on the listing photos. Private seller? Copy a message that asks for it.

The free lookups go straight from your browser to NHTSA; we don't store your VIN. Privacy. Want a title report right away? VehicleHistoryReport.com is free if you give your name, email, and ZIP code. Or open VINsmart ($9.95 per report).

Paid link: We may earn a commission if you buy a report through this link, at no extra cost to you. How this site makes money

How bait and switch works

What this means

A bait and switch is an ad for a car or a price the dealer doesn't really plan to give you. It gets you in the door. Then you're steered to a pricier car or a costlier deal. Save the ad, and don't switch to a deal you didn't come for.

The bait is a low price or a hard-to-find car. Once you're at the dealership, the switch starts. The car “just sold,” the price “was a mistake,” or the deal suddenly needs add-ons or dealer financing. Then the salesperson steers you toward something that costs more.

It works because you've already spent time getting there, and leaving with nothing can feel like a waste. You made the trip, but you don't owe them a deal.

The FTC's Guides Against Bait Advertising describe bait as an offer the seller doesn't really intend to sell. Its purpose is to switch you to something else, usually at a higher price. The FTC's advice on dealer ads says to get the price in writing before you go.

What to say

“I came for VIN [number] at the confirmed price. I'm not looking at other cars today. If that exact offer becomes available, email me. I'm leaving now.”

A dealer might say:

"That one just sold, but this upgraded model is only a little more per month."

What to watch for:

The car you came for is off the table, and now they're selling you a different car at a higher price. Talking about the monthly payment can hide how much more it really costs (for example, by stretching the loan longer).

You could say to the salesperson:

"I came for the confirmed VIN and price. I won't switch cars or talk monthly payments. Please put the change in writing. I'm leaving."

Adapt these words to your situation. Ask for the answer in writing before you sign.

Dealer won't honor the advertised or online price

The FTC says a low advertised price is misleading when the dealer doesn't honor it. For example, you arrive and learn the car isn't available at that price, or was never on the lot.

In March 2026, the FTC warned 97 dealership groups that an advertised price must be the total price, including every required fee. Its letters list pricing practices the FTC calls illegal, including:

  • An advertised price that leaves out required fees.
  • A price that counts rebates or discounts not everyone can get.
  • A price that leaves out an extra down payment you'd have to make.
  • A price you get only if you use dealer financing.
  • Requiring add-ons that aren't in the advertised price.
  • Advertising cars that aren't available or don't exist.

Show the dealer the ad and ask them to sell the car at that price, in writing. If they won't, walk away. The FTC asks you to report dealers that aren't honest about their ads.

If you do buy, compare the contract with the price the dealer sent you before you sign. If they don't match, ask why, and be ready to leave. See which dealer fees you have to pay.

When the advertised car “just sold”

Cars do sell, and listings can lag behind. An honest mistake comes with a clear answer. Be more suspicious if the dealer confirmed the exact car and price, can't say when it sold, keeps advertising it, or pushes you toward pricier cars.

The FTC's bait-advertising guides list more signs that an ad wasn't a real offer:

  • Refusing to show you or sell you the advertised car on the ad's terms.
  • Running down the advertised car, its warranty, or its financing to steer you away from it.
  • Not having enough of the advertised cars to meet expected demand, when the ad didn't say supply was limited.

The guides go further. If an ad gets you in the door by deception, the law is broken, even if the dealer tells you the truth once you're there.

Ask when the car sold, and ask for that answer by email or text. Then ask whether they'll honor the same price on a truly comparable car, in writing, with its VIN. If not, leave.

Don't switch in the showroom

Don't let the drive pull you into a different deal. Save the ad and their confirmation, ask them to put the change in writing, and walk away if they won't honor the exact offer.

Save the proof before you go

  • Screenshot the whole ad: the VIN, stock number, price, mileage, conditions, fine print, web address, and date, not just the headline.
  • Ask the dealer to confirm by email or text that the exact car is on the lot, with its out-the-door price and any required add-ons. A “yes” over the phone is hard to prove later.
  • Keep every message, and write down who you talked to and when.

The FTC suggests asking the dealer to confirm the car is on the lot and send the out-the-door price in writing before you leave home. Here's how to ask for an out-the-door price.

Your state may add its own rules

In California, for example, a dealer:

  • Must sell an advertised car at or below its advertised total price while it's unsold, even if you never saw the ad. Taxes, registration, the doc fee, and a few other charges can be added on top. Exception: the ad said the price was good only until a set time, and that time has passed.
  • Can't advertise a car that isn't actually for sale at the dealership, or available to it from the manufacturer, when the ad runs.
  • Must take down an ad for a car within 48 hours after it's sold.
  • Under the CARS Act (since October 1, 2026), can't mislead you about whether a car is available at the total price it gave you.

For your state's rules, ask your state consumer protection office. For California, see what the CARS Act says about total prices.

How to report a bait and switch

You don't have to prove anything in the showroom. Save the evidence and report it:

Include the ad, the dealer's written confirmation, your timeline, and the names of the people you dealt with.

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